Colombia: a la orden

When I was planning my travels this time around, I had an itching to see more than just Mexico. Being fluent in Spanish, I had logically decided to explore South America. My original plan had been to fly from Mexico to Peru, go to Machu Picchu, Bolivia, the Amazon, etc. However, as I was doing my research, I found so many gleaming reports about a less-traveled yet equally stunning country. Infamous, feared and often misspelled, people who had actually been to Colombia had only good things to say about their experience.

Shrouded in a 20 year old reputation for drugs, violence and civil unrest, Colombia does not find itself as a steadfast blip on the traveler's radar. South America is absolutely crawling with backpackers. As gigantic as South America is, many, many backpackers come and travel all around. Some start in Peru, others in Brazil or Argentina and start collecting stamps in their passports from there. This was one of the things that turned me off of my original plan of going to Peru. As I talked with more and more travelers, I found that the backpacker routes in South America are so heavily trodden that I realized I could see any of these countries at any age. While I am young and adventurous, I wanted to see a country that is not as easily accessible, not as well marked and possibly dangerous.

Aaaahhh, Colombia, sweet, gentle, misunderstood Colombia. The reality of life here in Colombia could not be further from the image of its reputation. In my two weeks of traveling around, I have never once felt like I was in danger. I have not heard any reports of massive violence, guerrilla attacks or coups. I have only seen cocaine once in a bar and was never offered it. I found Bogotà, the capital to be a clean, refreshing city and the Caribbean coast a warm and friendly place.

The people of Colombia are well aware of their reputation. They will tell you, as well, that ten years ago Colombia was a different place. Ten years ago, there was violence and less safety, but now, one can feel confident traveling around. The people are very friendly, tolerant and welcoming. They appreciate the tourism because it is a sign that there is no fear, that maybe they will one day escape their terrible reputation.

I have quite enjoyed my time here. This country has everything you could want. This place has all the sights one sees in Peru, Bolivia, Brazil, but in one country. There are snow-capped mountains, deserts, Amazon jungle, white sand beaches and ruins. Most people I meet do the four-day trek to Machu Picchu along with the millions of other people who visit it every year by train and even helicopter. Colombia has a breath-taking set of ruins as well called Ciudad Perdida. "The Lost City" is one of the most pristine archaeological ruins in the world. One can only reach Ciudad Perdida by hiking through the jungle. The trip takes five days and from what I hear, once you arrive, you have the entire ruins to yourself.

Through my travels, I have met a lot of people who are searching for the reality of places, "real Mexico", "real Peru", etc. I say if you want a "real" experience, go to Colombia. There are definitely people traveling here and there are touristy places, but Colombia is definitely not as heavily visited as other parts of South America. Colombia, known for its emeralds, is a gem itself. It is a lively place off the beaten track with music, dancing and warm invitations. It is also relatively safe. Robbery and petty theft arer obvious risks anywhere in the world and the same applies here. However, I have not heard any horror stories of muggings or anything happening here in Colombia. That does not mean that they don't happen. I am only saying that I have heard more horror stories about people traveling in Venezuela than here in Colombia.

Hostel Platypus Bogotà, Colombia, http://www.platypusbogota.com/

I stayed at Hostel Platypus my first time around in Bogotà. I followed the Lonely Planet's advice as well as the hostel's claim to be "the best hostel in South America". After staying there for five days, I can safely say it is not the best hostel in South America. Hostel Platypus has all the services a traveler could need: free coffee all day, laundry service, Internet, beer, phone service. German, the owner, also could not be more helpful or friendlier. While I was there, the hostel celebrated its birthday. There was free food, drinks and music.

The problem with Platypus is that the hostel occupies three separate houses on the same street. I was staying down the street from the main house. That was actually pretty cool. It is like living in your own place with a bunch of other people. The problem is that there is no hot water. In a chilly city like Bogotà, hot water is essential. The lower house also has a sitting room with a TV, but it is the most uncomfortable sitting room ever. Instead of couches or comfy chairs, there are wood chairs. One of the great things about hostel life is being able to hang out. Platypus is seriously lacking a good place to hang out, even in the main house.

Hostel Sue Bogotà, Colombia, http://www.hostalsue.com/

A great alternative to Hostel Platypus in Bogotà is right next door. My second time around, I stayed at Hostel Sue. Hostel Sue is also Colombian owned and has two separate houses to stay in. I stayed in the main house that was definitely more social and has hot water. The people who were staying at the hostel when I was there were more long-term travelers. Whereas at Platypus, there were a lot more people passing through, at Sue the people are staying around for longer.

The rooms are nice and it feels more like a home. It also has free coffee all day, FREE Internet, laundry service, etc. Hostel Sue also has a TV room with couches, which on a rainy day, like the day arrived, was a gift. It can be a little loud however.

Casa Viena Cartagena, Colombia, http://www.casaviena.com/

Casa Viena is probably the most popular hostel in Cartagena. It is often full and does not take reservations. If you show up and there are no beds, they will help you find other accommodation. The staff is very friendly and has a lot of information about the area. They can also help you arrange a boat from Cartagena to Panama. The dorm room is air-conditioned at night and they have private rooms.

Those, however are the only redeeming qualities of Casa Viena. There have to be better places to stay in Cartagena. Unfortunately, I did not have the time to go looking around for other places to stay. Casa Viena is cramped and hot. The location also leaves something to be desired. It is located a couple blocks outside of the Old City in sleazy part of town. I did not think the neighborhood was especially dangerous, but it is dirty and not beautiful. Also, while Casa Viena can organize a boat to Panama, this can also be easily done at the dock without their help.

La Casa de Felipe Taganga, Colombia, http://www.lacasadefelipe.com/

Hostel Platypus may claim to be the best hostel in South America, but La Casa de Felipe IS the best hostel in Colombia. This hostel also has all the services a traveler could ask or including breakfast service in the mornings. Breakfast does cost extra, but for a measly $5000 COP you get your choice o eggs, bread and good Colombian coffee. The staff is extremely nice and helpful. The grounds of the hostel are what set it apart from all other hostels. There are dozens of hammocks strung around four patios with plants an shade. There are dorm rooms an private rooms all reasonably priced. Also, although Taganga has been taken over my groups of Israelis, La Casa de Felipe does not attract many of them.

The only downside to La Casa de Felipe is that it is not located right on the beach. It is about a five minute walk uphill from the beach, but this is a small price to pay or the tranquil and splendid atmosphere. It is also fun to walk through town, saying "hi" to locals and getting to know more than just the beach. La Casa de Felipe does take reservations and they are recommended.